Vitamin C

• Prevents aging and makes your skin glow.

• A must-have in your regimen.

• Builds collagen, shields against damage, boosts SPF, helps fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots, brightens.

There are two forms of Vitamin C each with different benefits:

1. Active Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) 

• More potent. Can be more effective but harder to tolerate for many. If you cannot tolerate active Vitamin C, opt for an inactive Vitamin C ester.

• Higher % is more irritating but more effective.

• Mixing with ferulic acid makes stronger forms more tolerable.

• 5-10% is sweet spot for many, don’t go higher than 20%.

• Store in a cool, dry place. Active Vitamin C breaks down after a few months so only buy a little at a time.

• Use in the morning.

•  Consider avoiding in acne prone, oily, combo, sensitive skin as it can irritate. 

• It’s expensive, even the ‘low-cost options’ are in $30 range.

Product Recommendations:

$$$: 

• Skinceuticals C E Ferulic® with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid - gold standard

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• Paula’s Choice C15 booster serum (15%)

• La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C12 Serum (10%-12%)

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• Cerave Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

• Timeless Skin Care Vitamin C and E Ferulic Acid Serum (10% - 20%) - start at 10% and work your way up

• L'Oreal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Vitamin C Concentrate - acts as makeup primer as well

2. Inactive Vitamin C esters/salts

• Easier to tolerate than Active vitamin C and more affordable.

• There are several different forms of inactive Vitamin C.

• Tetrahexyl ascorbate (TA) is arguably the most effective of the inactive vitamin Cs.

• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate(SAP) is gentler, good with acne, may fade spots over time.

• Often well tolerated, may be irritating for some.

• Use once or twice daily as tolerated

Product Recommendations:

$$$: 

• Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum - TA, Dr. Chand’s personal favorite)

• Dr. Loretta anti-ageing repair serum - TA

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• Dr. Idriss Major Fade Active Seal Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizer - TA

• Vanicream Vitamin C Serum - TA

• Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum- SAP, fan favorite for affordable, tolerable glow

• No7 Protect & Perfect Serum-SAP, may be gentle if easily irritated

Niacinamide (4%-10%)

• Powerful Multi-Tasker

• A form of vitamin B3. A powerful ingredient! Improves skin tone, dark spots, post-acne marks, redness, boosts ceramide production, helps skin hold onto moisture better, makes skin more resilient, helps skin barrier, regulates oil, helps pores, calms irritation.

• Meshes well with other ingredients.

• Can irritate at  more than 5% percent. More is not more!

• Taking a low dose niacinamide oral supplement can also help skin (consult with doctor before starting).

Product Recommendations:

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• Skinceuticals Metacell Renewell B3 (5%) – moisturizing

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• Glossier Super Pure Niacinamide (5%) + Zinc 

• Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum - Niacinamide 5%, Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin

• Dr. Idriss The Depuffer Roll-On serum - Niacinamide <5%, Centella, Arnica

• Alpha-H Vitamin B with Copper Tripeptide Serum (5%)

• Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide
  

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• The INKEY List Niacinamide Serum (10%)

• The Ordinary Niacinamide (10%)

Azelaic Acid (2-4%)

• Helps with redness, inflammation, acne, hyperpigmentation, dark spots, controls oil, antibacterial, gentle exfoliant.

• This is like an non-prescription hydroquinone.

• Typically safe in pregnancy (always consult with doctor before starting new ingredient).

• Usually found in 2%-4% in serums.

• Takes time to see the difference, 4-8 weeks.
  

Product Recommendations:

$$$:

• Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly (10% azelaic acid)

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• Paulas Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

• Peach Slices Redness Relief Azelaic Acid Serum

• Dr. Idriss Left Un-Red Serum** - Dr. Chand Fav

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• The Ordinary 10% Azelaic Acid Serum

Kojic Acid

• Helps with dark spots, hyperpigmentation, even out skin tone, brightens, antibacterial.

• Mostly found in products at 0.5%-1%.

• Can go up to 2%-4% for more efficacy but careful, it can be irritating.

• Consider trying a patch test first.

• Use in PM.

• Takes 6-12 weeks to see change.

• Pairs well with glycolic acid

Product Recommendations:

$$$:

• SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense 1% Kojic Acid – contains kojic acid and tranexamic acid (use twice daily) 

• Sunny In Denbigh Kojic Acid Serum -combines shea butter, multiple natural ingredients(use nightly as tolerated)

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• La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum Dark Spot Corrector - combines Kojic acid and glycolic acid (2-3 nights a week only)

• Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum - combines Kojic acid, alpha arbutin, other ingredients (use twice daily)

• Seoul Ceuticals Korean Kojic Acid Serum – combines Kojic acid, alpha-arbutin and salicylic acid (few times a week or daily as tolerated)

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• The Derma Co. 2% Kojic Acid Face Serum – combines kojic acid/ alpha-arbutin/niacinamide (good for nightly use). 

• Blessings All Natural 4.4% Kojic Acid Lotion – higher concentration (4.4%) lotion, potentially stronger at fading spots but watch for irritation (use a few times a week, nightly if tolerated). 

• Theory Skin Care Kojic Acid Serum  – straightforward kojic acid serum that’s affordable with solid performance

Tranexamic Acid

• Target dark spots, hyperpigmentation, even out skin tone.

• May help redness, great for melasma.

• Usually found 2%-5% in serums.

• Can be taken orally with prescription (must speak with doctor about this as it can cause blood clots when taken orally).

• Takes time to work, 4-6 weeks.

Product Recommendations:

$$$: 

• SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum - 3% TA and 1%Kojic Acid.

• SkinMedica Even & Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment 

• Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum with Glycolic and Tranexamic Acid

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• Paula’s Choice Clinical Discoloration Repair Serum - combines TA and bakuchiol.

• Gold Standard Exfoliation Treatment

• Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%

• Dr. Idriss Major Fade Flash Mask - Tranexamic acid, glycolic and lactic acid, use 2-3 times a week.

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• The INKEY List Hyperpigmentation Serum (2%) 

• Hero Cosmetics Lightning Wand 10ml - good for spot treatment.

Alpha-Arbutin

• Target dark spots, hyperpigmentation, even out skin tone.

• May help redness, helps in melasma.

Product Recommendations:

$$:

• Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum - combines Kojic acid, alpha arbutin, other ingredients (use twice daily)

• Naturium Alpha Arbutin Serum – very solid mid-budget choice with niacinamide to help tone and texture.

• COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum – Korean favorite that combines 2% alpha-arbutin with other brightening actives (niacinamide + tranexamic acid).

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• The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA – Classic, highly-reviewed 2% alpha-arbutin with hyaluronic acid for hydration; a go-to affordable brightening serum.

• Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum – Contains alpha-arbutin plus traditional botanical ingredients and rice water; excellent affordable pick with a focus on overall glow.

A. AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) - Brighten, Fade, Smooth

• Water-soluble → works on the skin surface.

• Best for dull skin, dark spots, sun damage, uneven texture, fine lines, smooths texture, brightens skin, helps fade pigmentation.

• Can increase sun sensitivity and can sting sensitive skin.

• Use at night and only 2-3 times a week

• Chemically exfoliating your face daily can be stripping.

• Always wear sunscreen the day after you use these.

  There are 3 common types of AHAs: Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid

The 3 Common Types of AHA’s - Brighten, Fade, Smooth:

1. Glycolic acid - most potent, penetrates deeply, good for aging/brightening, usually the go-to acid if you can tolerate it.

2. Lactic acid - gentler, hydrating, brightening, can use while pregnant.

3. Mandelic acid - gentlest, good for sensitive skin, acne-prone, oily, good if you don’t tolerate the above.

Product Recommendations:

Glycolic Acid:

• La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum Dark Spot Corrector - combines Kojic acid and glycolic acid (2-3 nights a week only)

• L’Oreal Revitalift 10% Glycolic Acid Serum

• Dr. Idriss Flash Mask (Combines glycolic and lactic acid)

• CeraVe Skin Renewing Nightly Exfoliating Treatment  (Combines glycolic and lactic acid)

Lactic acid:

• Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid

• Dr. Idriss Flash Mask - glycolic and lactic acid

• The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA

• Dr. Idriss Flash Mask - combines glycolic and lactic acid

• CeraVe Skin Renewing Nightly Exfoliating Treatment  - combines glycolic and lactic acid

• Paula's Choice 6% Mandelic + 2% Lactic Acid

Mandelic acid:

• Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum

B. BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) - The Pore Cleaner

• Oil-soluble —> goes into pores

• Treats acne, clears pores, blackheads, whiteheads.

• Good for oily or combination skin, inflammation, calms redness.

• Can be drying if overused. Will not make you sensitive to the sun.

• Salicylic acid is the most common BHA.

Product Recommendations:

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• Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

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• Anua BHA 2% Gentle Exfoliating Toner

• Naturium BHA Liquid Exfoliant 2%

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• Neutrogena Acne Wash Salicyclic Acid - apply to face and let it sit 5 min before washing off

• Panoxyl Clarifying Exfoliant with 2% Salicyclic acid

• The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution 

• The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid Serum

• Cetaphil Gentle Exfoliating SA Lotion - very gentle

C. PHA (poly-hydroxy acid)

• Gentle, multi-tasker but maybe less effective

• Gentler than other acids

• Will not make you sensitive to the sun.

• If you easily get dark spots in the sun this may work better for you.

• Some anti-aging benefits, antioxidants.

• Consider these if you have sensitive skin and are new to acids or your barrier is compromised.

Product Recommendations:

• Ole Henriksen Phat Glow Facial

• Augustinus Bader The Exfoliating Toner 

• The INKEY List PHA Toner

• Cetaphil Healthy Radiance Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser

Quick rule of thumb For ACIDS (AHA, BHA or PHA):

• Sensitive or barrier-compromised skin? → Choose PHA.

• Oily/congested pores? → BHA may be better.

• Dullness or texture concerns but not sensitive? → AHA can be stronger but effective.

• You can also mix it up and use different acids depending on what your skin is going through at the moment. 

• You can use different acids on different nights of the week to target different concerns throughout the week

• Remember not to use acids more than 3 nights a week. Start with only once a week.

Benzoyl Peroxide

• Bacteria fighter

• Kills P-acne, unclogs pores, anti-inflammatory, can kill mites that contribute to rosacea.

• Should be effective at 5% for moderate to severe acne when used regularly.

• Use only a few times a week.

• For mild acne or for redness may use lower concentrations.

Product Recommendations:

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• Cetaphil Gentle Clear BPO Acne Cleanser 2.6%

• Paula’s Choice Clear Daily Skin Clearing Treatment 5%

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• Benzoyl Peroxide Gel 5% -”No Name Brand” is fine. For example, Up& Up brand at Target or Equate Brand at WalMart

• Panoxyl Acne Creamy Wash Benzoyl Peroxide 4%

Sulfur

• Multi-tasker, bacteria-Fighter

• A ‘go-to’ for acne, oily skin, clogged pores

• People used to go to hot springs to clear their skin, we found out later it was the sulfur clearing their skin!

• It is anti-inflammatory, oil regulating, antibacterial, antifungal and makes skin smooth.

• Great for Acne, Rosacea, Oily Skin, Eczema, Dandruff, Clogged pores.

• DO NOT USE IT IF YOU HAVE A SULFA ALLERGY.

• Sensitive skin be careful with sulfur.

• Don’t use at same time as benzoyl peroxide or BHA (salicylic acid) they can be irritating together.

• Do not use on open wounds.

• Effective concentration 3-6%. 

$$$:

• Kate Sommerville Eradikate Sulfur Foaming Daily Cleanser 3% - leave on 5 min before washing off, use a 1-3 times a week.

• Murad Rapid relief acne sulfur mask (only 5%) - use if you have a full face of acne and sensitive to high dose sulfur, use 1x a week.

• Peter Thomas Roth therapeutic sulfur mask 10% - if you have a full face of acne, 1x week.

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• TULA SKINCARE The Cult Classic Purifying Face Cleanser  -if you have full face of acne, non irritating mask, 1-3 times a week, leave it on several minutes and wash off, good for clogged pores.

• Starface super-sulfur magic mask 10% -if you have a full face of acne, 1x week.

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• De La Cruz Sulfur ointment - great for spot treatment, start 1-2 times a week during flare, may use everyday at night during flare if tolerated; Use 1-2x a week for maintenance thereafter. Good for cystic acne, very stinky so may be hard to put on full face, can opt for a mask, cleanser, gel instead.

• The Ordinary Sulfur 10% Powder-to-Cream - spot treatment

• Neutrogena Stubborn Acne Spot Drying Acne Treatment - spot treatment

• AcneFree Sulfur Acne Foaming Cleanser - full face, 1-3 times a week.

• By Wishtrend Sulfur 3% Clean Gel  - leave on gel for spot or full face 1-3 times a week as tolerated.

Peptides —> Build and Repair

• Peptides are the building blocks of collagen, elastin, and keratin.

• Peptides trick our body into thinking there is a wound on your skin to start healing. 

• They can strengthen the skin barrier, brighten and hydrate.

• Different peptides do different jobs.

• If peptides cause you to become red and inflamed, stop them.

See examples below of peptides to watch out for in your ingredients list:

1. Carrier peptides - carry ingredients to boost collagen, combat aging, fine lines.

   • Example: Copper peptides (avoid use with vitamin C, retinoids, strong acids)

2. Regulatory peptides - block enzymes that contribute to skin breakdown.

   • Example: Hexapeptide-2 (brightening)

3. Signaling peptides - signal your skin to build and repair, anti-aging.

   • Examples: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1,5,7, Matrixyl 3000, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

4. Botox-like peptide - decrease contraction of muscles in face (minimal).

   • Example: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline)

   
   

Product Recommendations:

Multi-peptide:

• The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum - all ages, avoid use with actives

• Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection™ Amplified Wrinkle-Fix Serum - good for 50+, okay to use with actives

Firming:

• The Ordinary Agireline Solution 10%

• Murad Targeted Wrinkle Corrector (Agireline)

• Skin Better Science Techo Neck Perfecting Cream - Neck

Brightening:

• Dr. Idriss Major Fade Active Seal Moisturizer 🡪 Vitamin C + glycerin + Hexapeptide 2

Skin Barrier:

• EADEM Cloud Cushion Airy Brightening Moisturizer

• Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid Brightening Eye Cream

Peptide + other ingredients:

• Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum - Gentle Acid + Peptides

• Kiehl’s Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum Retinol + peptides, good for pores, scars, great way to get your retinol

• Allies of Skin Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream Retinal + Peptides

• InnBeauty Project 10 + 10 More-sturizer Vitamin C + Matrixyl 3000

Growth Factors

• Repair, Firmness, Texture

• Boost collagen & elastin, speed up skin repair, improve texture & tone

• Common growth factors for skin and hair include EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor), FGF (Fibroblast Growth Factor), TGF-β, PDGF.

• Growth factors can be derived from: human stem cells (theoretically best but expensive and hard to source), bioengineered to mimic human growth factors (great, more accessible), plant-derived (these are okay, but plant growth factors are limited on human skin).

Product Recommendations:

• Skinmedica TNS Advanced+ Serum - closest to real human growth factors, great after laser skin treatment, expensive but good

• Allies Of Skin Multipeptide and GF Advanced Lifting Serum - Bioengineered 

• INNbeauty Project Elastic Skin firming and Plumping Vegan GF Serum with Copper Peptides - Plant derived with peptides

Retinoids

• Build collagen, prevent aging, improve firmness of skin, treat acne and dark spots, helps clear pores, improve texture and tone, reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

• Retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A and come in different forms.

• Here are the various forms of retinoids from weakest to strongest. 1. Retinol Esters (weakest) —> 2. Retinol —> 3. Retinal —> 4. Retinoic Acid Esters —> 5. Retinoic acid (strongest)

• Note these are ALL retinoids just in different forms with different potencies. Start low and work your way up. 

1. Retinol Esters - lowest strength, okay to start here especially with sensitive skin

• A313 - has x3 retinol esters

2. Retinol

• L’oreal Revitalift Derm Intesives Night Serum - for beginners 2x a week 

• Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3, 0.5 or 1.0- start lower and go up as tolerated

• OLEHENRIKSEN Double Rewind Pro-Grade 0.3% Retinol for Fine Lines & Wrinkles

3.Retinal

• Avene Retrinal 0.1 intensive cream - stronger than usual over the counter

4.Granactive Retinoid, retinoic acid ester 

• The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% or 5% in squalene

• Skin Rocks Retinoid 1or 2

5.Retinoic Acid - most effective, prescription only

• Tretinoin

• RetinA

• Differin Adapelene Gel - over-the-counter cousin to retinoic acid, helpful for acne but not anti-aging